Pre Trip: Comprehensive

Ponoi River Comprehensive Pre-Trip Information

THE FRONTIERS RUSSIA TEAM

Programme Manager/Air Reservations: Mollie Fitzgerald, Heather Unruh and Jean Baldauf for both U.S.A. and UK including visa processing.

Technical/Tackle Questions: Mollie Fitzgerald and Mike Fitzgerald, Sr. (U.S.A.); Justin Staal and Mark Hewetson-Brown (UK)

PONOI RIVER, KOLA PENINSULA, RUSSIA

The information that follows has been prepared based on experiences from the past seventeen years. No foreigners had fished the river in recent times prior to the first exploratory party in July 1990. We're still early in the learning curve about the fishery, but we have now seen the river in acute low-water conditions, in full spate and everything between. The great thing is that, through all extremes, our guests still caught fish to an extent that would be unprecedented on other rivers in similar conditions. Certainly the Ponoi has now established itself as the most reliable Atlantic salmon fishery anyone has seen in the modern era.

With the elimination of river nets (which was agreed to before the '94 season), the continued return of experienced guides, and enough anglers to fully explore and utilize the tremendous stretch of water that Ryabaga enjoys, we're hopeful that the remarkable fishing results of the last decades will be even better in the future but, of course, this is in the hands of nature. We also hope the following information will help you enjoy an exciting and rewarding fishing expedition even more.

LOCATION

The Ponoi is located just above the Arctic Circle, at approximately 67 degrees north latitude. It flows roughly from west to east, entering the Barents Sea on the south-east coast of the Kola Peninsula. The river is easily identifiable on any map since it's the largest on the Peninsula. The length of the river is over 250 miles (400 km), and it originates in a large tundra plateau, which acts as a reservoir, tending to buffer sudden fluctuation in water levels. From the camp at the confluence of the Ryabaga River and the Ponoi, you'll be fishing a stretch of river about 42 miles (67 km) long below the village of Kanevka to a point relatively near where the river enters the Barents Sea, plus a tributary, the Purnache, by special arrangement. The Ponoi is a big river, varying from 200 to more than 500 feet (60-150 m) wide, but with gentle gradient and easy flow. There are a number of attractive-sized tributaries, which also hold salmon.

EXPECTED WEATHER

Any northerly marine climate can be quite variable, and you need to be prepared. Although the climate tends to be more like Alaska than Iceland, for example, any given week can be both very warm and quite cold from one day to the next. Our closest weather statistics are never hugely accurate however, these will serve as basic guidelines:

In late May, the transitional period between winter and spring occurs and the temperatures can hover between the mid-20s and mid-40s (-4 to 7ºC). There is a chance of snow and rain.

In early June, the short spring meets summer and the average temperatures are quite unpredictable. One can expect occasional rain, with temperatures sometimes dipping into the low-30s (0ºC) at night, and highs in the 60s or 70s (15 to 25ºC).

Late June through the end of July, the Ponoi has its summer weather. Rain is infrequent and the long days heat the tundra, sometimes allowing comfortable t-shirt weather. Rain or clouds, though, can bring temperatures down to the mid-40s (7 ºC). Daytime temperatures in the 70s and 80s (21 to 30ºC) are common, and often anglers find themselves over-clothed.

August is a pivotal month and the weather can be either an extension of the summer weather or possibly a prelude to the cold storms of autumn. Autumn rains bring with them lower temperatures ranging in the high-30s and low-40s (3 to 5ºC). Daytime temperatures, however, can still reach into the 60s and 70s (15 to 25ºC).

September brings with it occasional harsh autumn weather. Wind and rain from the north can sometimes reach the Ponoi in the form of snow or rain, with temperatures in the mid- to high-30s (1 to 3ºC). One can expect the temperatures to fall into the 20s (-5ºC or lower) at night, and daytime temperatures rarely exceed the low 50s (11ºC).

Throughout these four months, recorded extremes are from 14 to 95 degrees (-10 to 35ºC). Relative humidity is 50-80 percent; the average monthly rainfall is 2-2½ inches (5-6.5 cm) spread across 14-16 days.

THE CAMP

The Ponoi River camps are isolated wilderness facilities and, as such, have only limited access by air to the outside world. There are no roads in the immediate area, a fact which enhances the fishery. Adding to the isolated wilderness aspect is the fact that the world outside the Ponoi happens to be the Commonwealth of Independent States, the new name for what was the Russian Republic, or Mother Russia. As a previously non-tourist area, this region has been largely isolated from the rest of the world for the last 70 years or so.

The camp will be under the able supervision of Ryabaga Manager Matthew Breuer, who is eminently qualified. He will be supported by Frontiers Senior Advisor Tarquin Millington-Drake and Ponoi River Co Managing Director, Steve Estella, Sasha Cheplukhov and Svetlana Kudrina in Murmansk of Ponoi River Co. Matt will have an international guide crew including a very experienced Russian team, backed by reliable Russian staff, most of whom have been there many seasons. The camp will have a carefully chosen Head chef, together with experienced Russian assistants.

Guests are accommodated in high-quality, American-made tents that have floors, built-in shelving, plenty of places to hang things, electricity, and are heated with small Finnish wood-burning stoves. The beds are sturdy with good mattresses, extra-long and extra-wide American sleeping bags with seven pounds of fill, large Finnish pillows, and flannel removable liners which are changed each week. There is a very large heated dining tent, complete with bar and fly-tying bench, a separate kitchen area and a well-stocked tackle shop.

Generators provide full electric power and each tent is lighted. Current is both American 110-volt with American-type, two-prong receptacles and 220-volt with European plugs, depending on location in the camp. You can charge batteries and use an electric shaver or hair dryer at some locations in camp. There is 24-hour hot water, which is propane-heated, and a shower building. There are centrally located flush toilets, plus the outdoor variety, which are well maintained to be as clean and comfortable as possible. There is a building called a banya, which is a sauna, adjacent to the shower building. It is a welcome, relaxing place to warm away the chill or the aches of a long day on the river. There is also a massage service.

Boats are custom-made, wide-bodied, 17-foot (5.5 m) aluminium flat-bottom type powered by jet units. The boats are very stable and comfortable, and have bow anchors for making drops when used for fishing.

Productive fishing water is accessible in both directions from the camp by boat, and remote beats are reached by boat or hovercraft directly from camp. We have a dedicated helicopter for the season -- the crews, including a mechanic, are residents of the camp. Fishing beats are rotated, and in most weeks, most of the guests reach their assigned fishing area by boat, or by hovercraft.

THE FISHING

There is still much to be learned about tackle and techniques, but it's refreshing to know that most of the salmon will never have seen a fly. There are liberal fishing hours and no limits on catch and release. The catch-and-release policy has been developed in concert with Russian authorities. Guests are required to fish only barbless hooked flies in single or double -- it's especially important to pinch down the barbs when using double-hooked flies. Any trophies can be recorded with photographs, length and girth measurements; good taxidermists, using the mould mount technique or carving, can create a fine replica. It is illegal to take fish from Russia. All guides and boats have weighing scales.

THE ROD

The Ponoi is a large, open river with pools that are long and wide. Many of these pools can be fished by wading and bank casting, while others are best fished from an anchored boat which is slowly dropped through the pool. The most suitable rod for the Ponoi is a medium-action double-handed 13 to 15 footer for a 9- to 11-weight line. These longer rods do make line mending easier and enable one to cast all day without tiring. If you prefer to fish with a single-handed rod, a powerful 9 or 10 footer for an 8- or 9-weight line is adequate. Spey rods are, however, more difficult to travel with, and most airlines will require they be checked as baggage rather than as a carry-on. Lighter line-weight rods are quite acceptable for tributaries and for grayling fishing. However, we recommend the 9-weight line for casting some of the larger flies used on the main river. A further consideration in favour of the heavier rod is its ability to fight and land salmon quickly and safely. This being a catch-and-release fishery means the fish need to be released in a condition that is conducive to their survival. Whichever rod you choose, be sure it has a 1½- to 3-inch (4-8 cm) fighting butt.

The two-handed rod is particularly useful in early season or periods of high water, when one is frequently forced to cast from the bank or from positions, which offer little back-cast room.

As a backup, the camp will have a variety of single- and double-handed rods (including reels and lines) available to borrow at no charge. There will be a repair charge if these are damaged.

THE REEL

A sturdy reel with reliable drag system is essential for this river. If the reel design includes the added braking control of an exposed rim, then so much the better. An audible click on the outgoing revolution of the reel is desirable, as it advises your guide as to just what is transpiring between you and your salmon.

The reel of choice should hold the fly line plus 120-175 yards (110-160 m) of either 20-lb or 30-lb backing. Interchangeable spools are nice but not absolutely essential provided your tackle supplier rigs your fly lines properly. The lines can be easily switched if your reel is of the design that precludes its spools to be interchanged. The best option is interchangeable tips.

FLY LINES

It has been our experience that Atlantic salmon of the Ponoi respond best to a relatively high riding fly. For this reason, floating fly lines or very slow sinking intermediate-density fly lines have been the favourite on the river to date. There are some pools whose character dictates a sinking-tip fly line, and we would include one. It is essential if you are fishing early or late in the season to include either fast sinking tips (such as Rio Windcutters with interchangeable tip system which are ideal, or Teeny lines ) or a full sinking line. At other times of the season, please bring a sinking-tip line in case of extreme weather conditions.

The Ponoi is a perfect place for those anglers familiar with shooting heads. There is ample casting room on most pools; some lies do require a cast 60 feet (18 m) and up, a distance perhaps best covered with a two-handed rod or a shooting head. For those who do elect to use shooting heads, be certain your lines are rigged to accommodate quick changing from one head to another. The ideal combination is a floating/running line with a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) loop that attaches to your 30-40 foot (9-12 m) heads. Dacron backing of the 20-lb variety is sufficient, and splices should be smooth and knot free.

We have found the intermediate fly line particularly useful in June, followed by a high-floating dry line. Floating line fishing will be most common June to early September, although the sink tips should be a part of your kit anytime in case of high water. A sinking-tip fly line or Teeny T-200 sinking line should also be included. The Ponoi contains many large submerged boulders that could impair the use of a full sink fly line, but you should still have one just in case.

A small container of fly line dressing will be useful.

LEADERS

Atlantic salmon are seldom leader shy. Thus, long and fine is not the order of the day for most of the season. We suggest a 9-foot (3 m) leader of 10-15 lb tippet strength and a butt that is stiff enough to turn over a #2/0 salmon fly or 2in brass tube. A dozen knotless 10-lb leaders are sufficient, along with a good supply of tippet material in a variety of sizes ranging from 10- to 15-lb test. We also recommend an 18-inch (45 cm) butt of hard nylon be attached to the tip of each fly line. A small perfection loop in the tip of this butt will speed the changing of your leaders.

The water of the Ponoi, though clear, is tea-coloured. For those of you who like to match their leader colours to that of the water, Original Maxima or any other red- to brown-coloured materials will blend best with the water. We recommend Maxima knotless leaders.

FLIES

At one time or another, virtually all of the old standards seemed to work, together with the old axiom of larger flies in higher, colder water and smaller flies in lower, warmer water. Some people used only steelhead patterns with great success. Some July anglers used only skated dry flies with great success. A number of new, very productive patterns were born at the Ponoi camp fly-tying bench after trial and error at riverside. We have found over the past few seasons that guests often bring selections of flies that are not suitable due to unusual conditions at the time of their visit. If you are planning to purchase flies specifically for your trip, please wait until you arrive as we have a full range of the right flies for current conditions available. If you would prefer to tie your own flies or already have vast numbers in your collection, please use the advice below to help you decide what to bring.

First of all: If you have a choice, we recommend double-hook flies with pinched barbs; they're no more traumatic to the fish (which will be released) than singles. If you must use singles, be aware that you may lose a lot more fish. Many guides also feel a fly tied on a double swims better in the water. If you use tube flies, clip a hook off the treble hooks or use tube-fly doubles. Many of the Ponoi salmon take very aggressively and can be hooked deeply. Spare yourself and your guide the necessity of "major surgery" and give released salmon the best shot at survival.

In the past we have noted that flies with longer, heavier wings and flashy additives seemed to work better than the standards. Thus, flies like the Ponoi Red and Ponoi Green were born on the banks of the Ryabaga, replacing the Red Butts and Green Butts of old. The Muddler was very useful in June and early July. A hybrid Marabou Muddler became the "Murmansk Muddler". Salmon were taken on the Murmansk Muddler, or on copper-coloured flies such as the Tippet Shrimp. The Ponoi Smelt is a variation of the Gray Ghost, used to take salmon, which had risen to a standard fly but refused the second offering. Going back to the fish with this streamer-type fly worked 90% of the time. Ted Godfrey's Sheep series were very effective in the early season and in September, and many guests do well with the traditional Willie Gunn, Ally Shrimp and Mickey Finn.

A lot of you will take hundreds of flies, and that's okay -- the recommendations that follow are minimums. (Remember, there will be a large quantity of popular flies available for purchase at the camp.)

For late May and early June, we advise taking three dozen wet flies in sizes 1, 2 and 4, with two dozen assorted brass or copper 1½- or 2-inch (4-5 cm) tube flies, plus a box of dry flies in case water levels and temperatures are conducive to dry-fly fishing. Dries should be Bombers and Buck Bugs in sizes 2 and 4 plus smaller muddlers.

For the last two weeks of June and the first half of July, take three dozen wet flies in sizes 1, 2, 4, plus some 6s, 8s and 10s as well as some tubes, both heavy and lighter aluminium. These anglers should definitely take at least a dozen dry flies, Bombers and Buck Bugs in sizes 2 and 4.

The second half of July through August, anglers should take three dozen wet flies in sizes 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10, and a couple of dozen dry flies, Bombers, and Buck Bugs in sizes 2, 4, 6 and a few smaller.

September anglers will likely use the same flies as are used in early June -- an assortment of tubes between 1 and 2 inch (2.5-5 cm) in brass or aluminium, three dozen wets in sizes 2, 4 and 6 and a few dries. Water levels and water temperatures may be August-like or June-like, depending.

Among standard salmon flies, consider the following patterns -- usually Hairwing and tied on doubles:

Thunder & Lightning, Tippet Shrimp, Blue Charm
Mar Lodge, Hairy Mary, Brown Silver Doctor
Silver Rat, Munroe Killer, Jock Scott
General Practitioner, Gray Ghost, Garry
Copper Killer, Black Dose, Green Butt
Green Highlander, Black Doctor, Purple Haze
Willie Gunn, Copper Shrimp
Sheep series -- black, blue, etc.
Assorted tubes from 1 to 2½ inches (2.5-6 cm) with #2, #4 or #6 hooks
Ponoi patterns previously mentioned.

WADING

There are sections on the Ponoi where the wading is quite easy; however, other sections require care and attention, with slippery rocks and large boulders. We advise good, stout, felt-soled wading shoes or the new Aqua Stealth wading shoes. Cleats are not advised.

We recommend that you bring a collapsible wading staff.

We also recommend some type of flotation device, like inflatable suspenders or an inflatable fishing vest. These will give you added peace of mind when fishing from boats or in any difficult wading situation.

There will be boats with motors for fishing pools, which are deemed too difficult for wading or holding water that can't be reached or covered with proper fly swing from wading positions. These boats are wide and stable enough to allow the angler to fish from a comfortable standing position.

We recommend chest-high Gore-Tex waders for the Ponoi. We suggest stocking foot rather than boot foot because they'll be more comfortable when walking on rocky shores with tighter and better ankle support from wading boots. You can layer under them to stay warm, yet they're much more comfortable than neoprene in warm or hot weather. Please note that your guide will always put you in the best place to have a chance of a fish, whether it means wading or boat fishing. However, if you have a definite preference for wading, please inform your guide at the beginning of the day, better still, the night before when they take your drinks order and chat about the day ahead.

ADDED NOTES ON THE FISHING

Essential Accessories -- You needn't overload yourself with gear to fish the Ponoi, but these items are regarded as essential:

Forceps
Two pairs of polaroid glasses
Hook hone
Small needlenose pliers
Extra tippet
Folding wading staff
Clippers
Tape measure to record big fish
Wader repair material
Sunscreen
Dry fly flotant
Camera, film and batteries
Insect repellent and "anti-itch" cream (June to mid-Aug)
Small torch/flashlight for streamside and camp
(Aug and Sept only; it never gets dark earlier)

The traditional technique of down-and-across fishing has proved effective for wading anglers over past seasons, and having boats on all beats substantially increases the opportunities to experiment with additional techniques.

The Ponoi fish are very "showy" salmon, giving away their holding positions readily with jumps and rolls. Many fish are seen before they are hooked. This is not to say that the absence of visible fish means there are no fish in the pool. Conditions can change any time. Flies are cast downstream at an angle to the flow of the water and then allowed to swing around parallel to the current. It is important to experiment with controlling fly speed. As a rule, Ponoi salmon seem to prefer a fast fly. You accomplish this by NOT mending line upstream as is traditional on some rivers to keep the line straight and the fly speed consistent with current flow. Rather allow some downstream belly in the line. Keep varying this approach until you find the right speed. In very fast currents, you might still need to mend; in slow currents, you might try mending downstream, creating extra belly to move the fly faster.

Many salmon may take the fly near the end of its drift, where a rest of a few extra seconds followed by some stripping should be allowed before picking the fly up. Often a take occurs just before pickup. As each cast is fished out, the angler needs to either extend his next cast or else take a large step downriver before casting to cover still more water. With so much water to cover, keep moving and "hunt" faster rather than slower. Yet, if you move a fish, keep working on him with additional casts and fly changes. Inducing a reluctant fish to take is a lot of fun and one which you have moved is then the best candidate to take.

One point to remember is that it is not necessary to strike Ponoi salmon. The most successful way of hooking them is to let the fish have all the time he wants to take the fly and then slowly lift the rod as he moves away. Do remember, however, that as soon as you lift the rod, the line must be kept taut. Although no way of hooking salmon is 100% guaranteed, this technique is a lot more reliable than striking as soon as you feel the fish. Ponoi salmon will take dry flies, particularly when they are skated. Once a fish is hooked, the angler needs to move with the fish. Standing in one spot and attempting to drag it to you against the current will not work; you need to keep lateral and downstream pressure on salmon. Your guide will follow along with you once you are hooked up to assist as needed in landing and releasing the salmon.

For those fish hooked from a boat, the guide will determine which way the salmon is heading and, after slipping the anchor, will get you to shore in the most advantageous position abreast or below the fish in order to capture the fish as carefully as possible. They will then quickly remove the hook and revive it before release.

Grayling Fishing -- The Ponoi contains a large population of European grayling which average 12-14 inches (30-36 cm) with occasional larger fish up to 20 inches (50 cm). These grayling are not the sophisticated variety found in other more accessible European rivers, so there is no need to employ long, fine leader and small fly combinations used elsewhere on the Continent. They are more aggressive, like the arctic grayling of Alaska. They will take bright, wet flies and floating caddis imitations such as the Elk Hair Caddis dry flies. In the evenings among the rocky shallows, an angler can keep busy hooking and releasing these colourful, pretty fish.

Note: In certain areas grayling can actually be bothersome when you're salmon fishing -- they'll take salmon flies. The key to avoiding grayling when you don't want to catch them is not to let your fly swing far into slack water at the end of a drift. If you let it hang in slack water, that's often where grayling will take.

Sea Trout / Sea-Run Brown Trout -- The Ponoi has both sea-run and resident brown trout, and you'll often take them when salmon fishing. Fresh sea-run browns are a great game fish, and the guides will know which beats are productive for trout if you're interested. Some days last season anglers took a dozen sea-run browns a day incidental to their salmon fishing. The majority might average 2 lbs, but really nice sea-run brownies were taken to 6-8 lbs. In that range, they're an exciting fish.

Most people do not bring special tackle for grayling or brown trout. If you wish to, let us know and we'll make specific recommendations.

CATCH AND RELEASE

Anglers should be careful in handling salmon to be released. Do not drag the salmon up onto the bank. Do not hold salmon to be released by the tail in an inverted position for photographs or whatever reason. This can damage internal organs and kill the fish. If you would like to photograph your fish, we prefer the guide to hold it briefly before slipping it back into the water. Often the delay involved in passing round a fish for a photo-shoot can dramatically reduce its chance of survival. Barbless hooks, well sharpened, often catch more fish than barbed hooks. They also make removing a hook much easier and much less traumatic to the fish. If you could pinch over the barbs on your hooks (or ask your guide to do so) it would be greatly appreciated by all, as it is mandated by law.

As you may be aware, the Ponoi River Co. is sponsoring a scientific research project in conjunction with the Atlantic Salmon Federation and the Russian entity PINRO on catch and release and the salmon populations of the Ponoi River. In the sping or autumn your guide will likely tag many of your fish just prior to releasing them with a small 'needle gun' technique that is quick, painless to the fish, and enables us to track the fish and their recovery after catch. Each tag is numbered and your guide will record the date, time and pool in which your fish was caught. Some amazing data has been revealed due to this process, and we appreciate your patience in the few extra seconds this may take.

CLOTHING

The layered approach to clothing is best in this region above the Arctic Circle. It is important not to pack too much, due to weight restrictions on aircraft, and to plan your clothing carefully. We regret that laundry service is not available; however, there is a drying tent. Summertime temperatures are usually moderate, but in the list that follows, we include preparations should cold weather move in the week you arrive -- and it will be chillier in early June and from mid-August into September.

Polypropylene (or Capilene) long underwear, the recommended layer beneath gore-tex waders
Polypropylene or Capilene underwear top
Poly/cotton shirts
Chamois flannel or fleece shirts
Fleece or down vest or "down shirt"
Fishing jacket/windbreaker
Fishing and camp trousers -- jeans, cotton chinos, canvas, corduroy, or wool
Rain gear, waterproof (Gore-Tex) and to use as extra layer
Note: Fishing jackets or rain jackets with tackle pockets and warming pockets and with snap-on hood are desirable.
Wool or poly fingerless gloves
Camp shoes -- leather top slip-on, rubber bottom are excellent
Cotton and wool socks
Shorts for sauna/warm weather
Warm sweater
Knitted stocking cap for cold weather
Visored fishing hat

INSECTS

During late-June, July and early August, those insects common to the northern woods are present -- mosquitoes, no-see-ums, etc. The usual precautions against them prevail. Bring plenty of insect repellent that works well for you. Those who are more sensitive to bugs and bites, bring a head net. In our experience insects virtually disappear by August 15th.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS NEEDED

Toilet kit (bath towels and wash cloths are provided)
A battery-operated electric razor will probably be more comfortable and faster -- otherwise, blade razor
European electric converter set (the shower area has 220V; the dining tent has 110V)
A day pack or gear bag -- You need a small waterproof bag to take "stuff" out with you each day, including camera gear, extra tackle, extra clothing items, and snacks. This can also double as a piece of carry-on luggage.
Eye shades -- for June and July, when there are 24 hours of daylight.
Alarm clock

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS

A valid passport is required for travel to Russia and Finland, including your Russian visa. You will be required to present your visa upon entry and exit in Russia.

Please read and follow the visa application instructions extremely carefully.

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

The camp will have beer, wine and vodka, plus other bar stock. Alcoholic beverages, except wine during dinner and vodka open bar, are not included in the cost of your trip and will be charged on a tab during the week. Any other alcoholic beverages or special labels that you particularly favour you should purchase duty free and bring with you to the Ponoi. We have not experienced any problems with customs at Murmansk (limited to two litres). You are permitted to bring into Finland one litre of hard liquor, so you might want to consider duty-free purchases in Helsinki for any additional supplies.

WATER

The drinking water supply for camp is taken from clean tributaries adjacent to camp. The water has been tested in the U.S, Finland and Russia and has been determined to be pure. The camp has an effective filtration/purification system in place to treat drinking water as a further precaution. This is inspected regularly. In Russian cities, drink only bottled water, not from the tap.

HEALTH AND MEDICATION

Check with your personal physician about any inoculations he recommends prior to your travels. Considerations might be tetanus, immune serum globulin for hepatitis, etc. There are no required inoculations currently for travel to Russia.

We have first aid and U.S. medical supplies at the camp, plus a handpicked Russian physician in residence. If you have any chronic health problem, be sure to let us know so that we can advise the camp manager prior to your arrival.

Be sure to bring any personal medications that you take, together with common travellers medication -- anti-diarrhoea, anti-nausea, anti-allergy, aspirin, sunscreen, etc.

If you are aware of a personal health problem that causes any concern about being in a wilderness region for a week, check with your physician. Follow his advice and make sure you're making a prudent choice in going.

We highly recommend that you consider purchasing medical evacuation insurance, which is very reasonable. Information and applications are available through Frontiers.

SPECIAL DIETARY REQUIREMENTS

If you have any health-related dietary requirements, please let us know. We will do our best to supply the camp accordingly.

GRATUITIES TO GUIDES AND CAMP STAFF

Gratuities are a personal matter relating to your judgment of the services rendered at your camp. Gratuities are gratefully accepted and our best recommendation is to check with the camp manager before the end of your week for guidelines. They will give you parameters so that you avoid overtipping or undertipping. You can consider 5% ($450 to $850, whichever is the greater), as a good guide. You will likely fish with different guides throughout the week and we suggest you pool the entire gratuity amount and give it to the camp manager, who then takes care of equitable distribution. The tip pool is divided between all the camp staff evenly.

GRATUITIES IN HELSINKI

In Helsinki, we'll have an English-speaking Finnish representative available on Fridays and Saturdays to coordinate arrivals and departures, transfers, etc., and to make recommendations for sightseeing, shopping and dining. Tipping this individual would be appreciated for personal services rendered.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE

For the latest exchange rates please see www.xe.com
Please note XE.com is not an affiliate of The Ponoi River Co. and we do not hold responsiblity for the content of external websites.

TRAVEL, TRANSFERS AND HOTELS

Frontiers is processing the flight tickets and en route arrangements for most guests, and you will be receiving information about arrivals, transfers, hotels, etc., in your final itinerary. Anyone who is handling arrangements independently must inform Frontiers of your arrival and departure times in Helsinki.

We urge you to let Frontiers plan your flight itinerary, even if you are travelling elsewhere in Europe before or after the fishing week -- and to issue the tickets. This allows Frontiers to coordinate arrival and departure transfers in a proper manner with personnel in Helsinki. Frontiers will get you the best fares and plan itineraries to meet your objectives.

We also urge you to let Frontiers make your hotel arrangements in Helsinki. They have a block of rooms reserved and very attractive group rates established at Helsinki's best hotel, the Hotel KAMP. The flight schedule to Murmansk on Saturday mornings leaves very early and it will enhance and expedite travel if all of our guests can leave together early Saturday morning. Remember, the flight to and from Murmansk operates only once a week, and it is essential that you make these connections.

You will be asked to consider Finnair's fine economy or business-class service for the flight to Helsinki. Finnair is considered one of Europe's best airlines and they have done all of us a great favor by maintaining Helsinki-Murmansk service, which makes reaching the Kola Peninsula less expensive and more comfortable than ever before. British Airways and American Airlines' frequent flyer programmes are applicable on Finnair.

Those fishing the Ponoi must arrive in Helsinki no later than Friday for the Saturday flight to Russia. If you miss it, it's a long, tedious and expensive hassle to try to get to the Ponoi camp.

We are planning to utilize Finnair's charter service out of Helsinki to Murmansk. You'll be collected early Saturday morning, transferred to the Helsinki airport to depart at 8:20 a.m. for nonstop service to Murmansk, landing at 11:15 a.m. (local time one hour later than Helsinki). Ponoi River Co. has its own ground staff in Murmansk to assist with customs clearance and baggage transfers. You will then board an Mi-8 helicopter to fly directly to the Ponoi camp (approximately a two-hour flight). There will be plenty of time to unpack and get oriented before cocktails and a welcoming dinner. Home-pool fishing will be available this afternoon and evening.

On return, you'll depart camp the following Saturday at approximately 7 a.m. The Finnair flight back to Helsinki is scheduled to depart 11:55 p.m., landing in Helsinki 12:45 p.m. This should permit connecting directly with the Finnair flight to New York, which leaves Helsinki at 2:20 p.m., or the flight to London, departing at 2.05 p.m. Those travelling elsewhere in Europe will have a variety of flight connections as well.

We must point out, however, that this does not suggest you make definite commitments on the weekend you're planning to return home. Flight scheduling can change, and in the past, schedule changes and operational or weather delays have sometimes been a factor. These things are completely beyond our control and must be considered and accommodated when making your plans. We'll certainly do all we can to expedite ground handling and connections, both in Murmansk and Helsinki, to give everyone the best possibility to get home on that departure Saturday.

We urge that anyone considering additional travel in Russia before or after the fishing week do so maintaining Helsinki as your hub. We do not recommend planning to arrive in Murmansk from St. Petersburg, for example, or going on to St. Petersburg or Moscow directly from Murmansk at the end of the fishing week. Aeroflot flights are subject to cancellations and delays, and frequently depart at strange hours. Even though you may backtrack a bit or spend a little extra in air fare, we believe that maintaining Helsinki as your hub and utilizing reliable Finnair service will save you much potential hassle, anxiety, etc. We will assist with schedules and any arrangements you need elsewhere in Russia.

BAGGAGE

Please check with your carrier or speak to Frontiers close to your departure with regard to baggage allowances which vary from carrier to carrier and airport to airport. The airlines will charge for overweight baggage, especially in Europe. You will be able to leave items not needed at camp with the Hotel KAMP's concierge if you are returning to the hotel at the end of the week. We recommend this for travelling clothes, etc.

DAILY FISHING SCHEDULE

The camp manager will orientate you about fishing hours on arrival. Generally, guided fishing hours are from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., with lunch taken on the river. Any special requests should be directed to the head guide or the camp manager. The Home Pool is retained as open water for those who want to fish earlier or after dinner. When fishing Home Pool, keep moving so others can have equal opportunity at rotating through the pool. Try always to fish with someone at Home Pool so you're not alone (for safety). There will be a Home Pool guide available on the Saturday that you arrive in camp.

NOW A FINAL NOTE

All of us involved will be doing everything we can to ensure your enjoyment on this unique expedition. However, travel to Russia's wilderness can present problems. The Murmansk airport can be slow and inefficient. Although it has seldom happened over the years, weather can cause flight delays in and out of Ryabaga and possible missed connections, particularly at the end of your fishing week, imposing additional costs or delay in your return home. This is beyond our control and realm of responsibility. Please accommodate that possibility in your planning and your state of mind.

The key is to be open-minded and tolerant, knowing that some things are done in a different way in Russia. Nothing works fine all the time anywhere. Take things in your stride, relax, and make the most of every day. We may all enjoy an Atlantic salmon fishing destination of a quality that few have ever known. On the other hand, weather or whatever could impose disappointments.

We know you'll be well received at the Ponoi camp and that you have made the right decision as to which river to fish on the Kola. Everyone will be doing their best to make you comfortable, to enhance the fishing, and to provide a most memorable experience.